Rinko Murata loves all types of curry. In this edition of Tokyo Dinner, she invites the person she wants to meet up with the most to eat the curry she’s been wanting to eat the most.   This month’s notable restaurant she stopped by was HEIJITSU HIRU DAKE in Kōenji, Tokyo. Their curry portions are generous and are good for the stomach and satiety center. They serve a curry flavoured with Japanese dashi, or ‘stock.’   How do you spend your early afternoons when you have time off? Lounging around at home with quality time to yourself sounds like a good plan. Definitely appealing.   But this is a rare opportunity. How about going on a little adventure to try something you can get a kick out of because it’s midday and a weekday?   I know the perfect curry house for your hungry selves. HEIJITSU HIRU DAKE.   As the Japanese name suggests, it’s a curry that can only be eaten at lunchtime, a mysterious dish that doesn’t appear on regular days off.   I land in Kōenji, a place I love the most. Even though iKōenji is Kōenji, the closest station to the restaurant is Higashi-Kōenji Station. My vision is filled with all kinds of sights. It’s like being lost in a treasure chest. This place is actually normally a café and goes by the name Schwarze Katze. It’s open mainly on Friday night, weekends and holidays. “HEIJITSU HIRU DAKE” runs in a rented room in the café and and is open when the café is. It’s kind of luxurious to have the chance to eat my favourite food (curry!) in a place like this. My heart desires the Wadashi Soboro Curry (¥980) that I mentioned earlier. It also comes with self-service coffee for after your meal. For toppings you can choose whatever you like. Since I was there and didn’t want to get lost on what to pick, I went for all the toppings (¥300). The water I ordered comes in a plastic bottle. The tables have antique displays. Everything on them was wonderful. The air was clad in that rich, familiar scent of curry, a special one that I would never get to eat had I not come here. The instant I hold the curry in my mouth the delicious flavour of the dashi sparks in my mouth like fireworks. The broth has a slight thickness to it and a strong, deep flavour that fades into a soft aftertaste on the tip of your tongue. It’s not at all spicy, and the goodness of the dashi is luxurious like being escorted by a gentleman. And I can’t forget the smell. My taste buds throb at this new sensation. Like its name suggests, this is a dish where the Japanese dashi stands out above the ingredient crowd. The restaurant owner has gathered much experience in the kitchen from traditional Japanese cuisine to sushi, ramen, yakiniku, izakaya style and so on. He encountered this place by chance, and with one look he said to himself, “I want to try doing curry.” The Wadashi Soboro Curry came about through his gained culinary experience combined with the aesthetics of the café. To bring out the full flavour of the dashi so it isn’t drowned out by the curry spices, the owner uses two types of skipjack tuna, kombu, dark sleeper, and dried sea slug, as well as a type of soy sauce called Kaeshi. 15 more ingredients are blended together to create the spices, creating deep and delicate flavours. Now it’s time for a session with the mountain of ingredients I greedily asked for. It’s enshrined with classics like meat soboro, beefsteak, agedama, bonito flakes, and dried plum in addition to pickled daikon radish, crushed natto, Japanese ginger, and okra. The spinach and onsen tamago egg sit at the foot of the mountain and create a new culinary sight. The base of the dashi is mobilized with a force of Japanese ingredients with a smell and flavour and that comes together harmoniously in your mouth. I’m spellbound by the flavours that stand out coupled with the pleasant textures of the agedama, daikon and ginger. Hey, I must have hit every ingredient in there. All correct.   I added a sprinkle of pepper that was on the table and create yet another refreshing aromatic veil. The compatibility of the pepper with the dish works so well precisely because it uses a Japanese dashi. Wadashi, or Japanese broth, is a staple of Japanese cuisine. The curry and Japanese soul carved into this dish resonates with me. It’s my first time eating it, yet I’m still filled with a sort of nostalgia―a warm embrace. I also understand why when the shop opens, the customers in the café stand up and change with the next line of customers. The owner has a wonderful sensitivity, and has worked out a way to put his own matchless warmth into each and every bowl. I caught sight of his gentle smile as he was cooking in the kitchen. It left an impression on me. What a delicious curry to enjoy in such a wonderful place. All five of my senses have reached peak happiness. I grab my post-meal coffee and head onto the streets of Kōenji. What a wonderful weekday afternoon.   Text:Rinko Murata Photo:Kayo Sekiguchi Edit:Miiki Sugita Translator: Joshua Kitosi-Isanga

The orange Chuo line of the station can be seen from the large window on the wall. Sometimes it's the yellow Sobu line. Without having even left the ticket barriers, you can catch a glimpse of it from the platform. When night descends over the district, the window frames light up with illumination. Welcome to Yonchome cafe in Kouenji. I can't believe it's been 7 years that I’ve wandered up and down these streets! Today we are going to introduce the one place I can't stop loving. It is located in the charming Kouenji and is the home of this wonderful window view.

Leave the south exit, walk along the rotary and you will eventually arrive at Yonchome cafe, which is on the 2nd floor of the building. What a fitting name for a cafe located in Yonchome, Kouenji!

Open the thick wooden door and you will discover a cafe with an interior bigger than you imagined. With 100 seats, the atmosphere of the cafe is moderate and spacious, with a good distance between the tables and an overall calm feel. Sit here and you will easily lose track of time. Amongst the mood lights and glistening stain glass windows, of course the seat of your choice would be next to the window, where the evening light entwines with the ambient glow that radiates from the Chuo line.

However, when the weather is fine or when a mild midday breeze rolls in, it's hard to resist a seat on the terrace! A book in one hand and coffee in the other, or raising a toast with beers, watching the busy people walking the steers below. What's your style?

The heartily portioned lunch sets are reasonably priced and delicious, making this restaurant really stand out. The regular menu includes generous portions that are ideal for sharing. Happy hour runs on the weekdays from 17:00 〜 21:00, during which time draft beers and the house wine sells for just ￥230! The main charm of Yonchome is its value for time and money.

The deluxe taco-rice with soft boiled egg （デラックスタコライス 半熟卵添え） costs ￥1,000. As the name implies, it is an extravagant and luxurious dish. No matter how hungry you are or how many people are in your group, this meal is the perfect size to share or devour solely to yourself. The dish is packed with a variety of ingredients such as vegetables, meat and cheese. The spicy sauce packs the perfect punch to balance out the mild egg. Order a beer for the perfect finish to your feast.

Speaking of beer, the anchovy potatoes (￥500) make for the perfect accompaniment. Although the potatoes are quite large, the crispy skin, tempting aroma, and creamy and salty anchovy butter enhance its wow-factor. This is the ultimate combination of flavours! Although this is quite a quirky dish to single out, I must say out of all the potato dishes I have ever had in my life, this was the best!

Whether you drink alcohol or steer clear of it, there is something for everyone at Yonchome Café. The coffee, alcohol and soft drinks range is particularly large. They also sell special summer homemade lemonade for ￥630, which is the perfect way to refresh yourself and quench your dry days against the heat of summer.

Light pours passionately into the café, yet the atmosphere is calm. No matter when the food arrives, it is always delicious. No matter what time you arrive, you will be greeted by comfort. Whether it be afternoon or evening, whether you come alone or in a crowd, you will always feel welcome.

Like the view outside your window, our feelings change every day. However, you can always count on this café to always be here, unchanged. You can return to your favourite spot, your favourite seat and enjoy your favourite meal.

 

As the day winds down and the night time illumination lights up, the Chuo line is still running. Seated next to the window that exposes the Chuo line in operation, I thought to myself that maybe, this is my favourite spot.

 

Photo：Kayo Sekiguchi
Editor：Namiko Azuma
Original text by：Miiki Sugita

Translated by: Samantha Fernandes

Source：She magazine

 

 

Related article：【Tokyo Cafe】Enjoy a calm and relaxed time at “Café SOROR” in Ōtsuka

 

Related article：【Tokyo Cafe】Visit the café which has a menu that gives you great impact Vol,6 “Kissa Housekibako”

 

The good old days food such as spaghetti Neapolitan, shaved ice cream, hot cake, and yakisoba has been becoming popular again. These are nostalgic foods for looking back at good old memories for people who are born in Showa era(1926~1989), and it also is kind of new food for people who are born in Heisei era(1989~). I would like to focus on “Monja-yaki” as the next Showa gourmet trend. People who are living in other than Kanto area may not be familiar with this food. There are two different ways to cook Monja-yaki in Tokyo; Asakusa way and Tsukishima way. The big difference is to make the base or not. The base is like building a breakwater not to spread dough on the pan. Tsukishima way is to make a base with ingredients such as cabbage at first and then pour the dough on to it. On the other hand, Asakusa way is to make the thin crust with dough at first and then eat it with chopped ingredients on the pan. Sato Koji who manages unique restaurants such as “Cristiano’s” in Yoyogi-uehara and “Pappon Kitchen” in Shibuya opened the new restaurant called “Osozai to Senbei-Monja Sato” this year. As a lot of experienced chefs who learns a lot about multi cultural food, he prepared from standard Monja-Yaki to unique ones such as Russian style ones(1620yen include tax) which has beets and sour cream and Thailand’s style(1620yen include tax) which has fish sauce. Asakusa style thin crust type Monja is the one which Mr.Sato has been eating since he was little. I highly recommend you to enjoy the nostalgic food in this at home restaurant.        

The popularity of Japanese sake has been rising not only in other countries but also in Japan.  Also, the restaurants that carry sake not only at casual bars but also at French, Italian and Chinese restaurants is increasing. It is becoming more standard to enjoy unique Japanese sake with various kinds food but not only Japanese. The popular bar named “Sakaba Soregashi” that you can feel free to enjoy Junmaishu (sake made without added alcohol or sugar) has opened another branch named “Nikuryouri Soregashi” in Gotanda, this March. There are other branches that serve chicken, but this new branch mainly serves beef dishes. They put more importance on having a variety of kinds of Japanese sake.   The owner, Jun Oyama, said, “Japanese sake is the national beverage that we can be proud of to the world. I want more young people to enjoy their deep tastiness freely.” If you eat plain red meat, the sake that has rich and strong flavor is going to go with it. If you eat sweeten meat like sukiyaki, the tanrei (crispy and dry) sake is going to go with it. I would recommend you enjoy finding the best sake to go with their meat. It is also popular to drink their original sake called “Hideo(756yen include tax)” with carbonated water. I bet you are going to get hooked on sake once you find the best one to go with their meat dish even if you are not good at Japanese sake!    

Gyoza is a representative popular food that is loved by many people. Recently, even “gyojo (Gyoza girl)” who call them self gyoza lover has appeared. The bar style gyoza store that you can eat gyoza with champagne or wine is especially popular among ladies. “GYOZA BAR Comme a Paris” in Aoyama is a new style Gyoza store that you can enjoy gyoza with natural wine or champagne. It is also known as the restaurant that Masakazu Narukami from restaurant called “Narukami” which received one star in Michelin guide book is being in charge of creating menu, so their side dishes and sauce have his own uniqueness. Chef Narukami said, “I had heard that the gyoza and champagne store is getting really popular in Paris, so I actually visited there. When I saw French people eating gyoza like as a patty, I thought that Japanese is going to like it for sure as well.” Cilantro, gyoza(680yen include tax) and Onion gratin gyoza(920 yen include tax) are popular other than standard menu such as vegetable gyoza(520yen include tax) or pork gyoza(550yen include tax). Especially, onion gratin gyoza has a great combination of chewy texture of wrap taste like boiled gyoza and rich onion gratin’s flavor. These are good to eat as an appetizer or to eat to finish up the meal. I bet you are going to like this surprisingly good combination of gyoza and wine once you eat it!  

Spring, summer, autumn and winter, for breakfast, lunch and dinner – I want to eat curry all the time! This is the sequel to curry lover Rink Murata’s mission to visit all the best curry restaurants in the city. All restaurants in the sequel have been approved not just by Rinko-chan, but also by many other customers! All Rinko-chan has with her is her purse, a camera and an undying love for curry!

If you go to Koenji once, you will immediately want to go again. When you go out to drink in Koenji, it has recently become a common trend to hit up “Negura” while you’re out there. “Have you been there before? Let’s go!” say the many fans of these crazy curries, however, this isn’t really a place big on alcohol. We were contacted by Rinko, who said she found a new, exciting place to continue her curry quest. This place features Indian curry with a wild concept!

Just a two-minute walk from Koenji station by foot and you will reach the Etoile shopping centre. With a name like that anybody would be curious. This is where Negura is located. The chef of Negura has never been to India, but the concept of the restaurant is their wild ideas used to make curry. Just the sound of it is a fun concept but it is not so much the concept that gave the restaurant its name, but the destination. The official restaurant name “Negura” (meaning roost) originates from the pet name that the two managers referred to this location as during their old school days, as this was their meeting point. Whilst eagerly opening the door to the restaurant, Rinko’s heart was throbbing!

The interior is decorated with lots of small objects and books crammed together. One wall also features a colourful and dynamic painting. The art direction was managed by Shoshi Nigamushi, an artist who has contributed to the designs of rock festivals and many other events.

Ower Osawa-san explained that they have never been to India, which came to a big shock because one taste of the food and you would have thought differently. (It’s a real shame we don’t have Osaawa’s photo – a very kind and gentle person!)

“The restaurant atmosphere is very Indian, and despite not mentioning anything of the sort, it is easy to believe that Osawa-san has done training in India” said the cute Kondo-san while laughing.

Rinko eagerly anticipated her curry!

The menu uses ingredients of the season and likewise bases the meal around a wild concept for the daily special. Today’s menu featured onion and tomato, rape blossoms and manila clams. (￥1,000) The topping was kumquat and pepper chutney (￥200) Rinko also ordered Shibireru chai! (￥500)

The whole plate was fully satisfying! Two varieties of curry, and a colourful range of vegetables such as tomato, garden peas and carrots – what a luxurious mix! Where to start?

A meal with impact accompanied with a spicy chai – surely you cannot taste anything as extravagant as this anywhere else.

 “This is delicious!” said Rinko chan, as she continued through her meal. Describing the flavour as “gentle”, her spoon quickly cleaned the plate. The spices and the ingredients worked perfectly together. On the whole, the meal was not too spicy, allowing the true flavours of the ingredients to be fully enjoyed. The aftertaste of the spices, however, packed a decent punch. Not only was the taste exceptional, but the balance was a whole new experience! The true wild concept could be tasted in the meal. Combining the taste of India with mankind’s strongest point of imagination, the wild concept for this restaurant was born.

The atmosphere of the restaurant was youthful – from its name to its interior. You could feel the wonderful, warm personality from the two staff members. There is more than just that, however.

By means of imagination and freedom, a challenging concept was born. And this flavour is what brings many people happiness.

A restaurant where memories are made, two people embarked on a challenge, creating a wild kingdom of Curry. Koenji is already known as “the India of Japan”, and this Curry kingdom emphasises this even more.   Come try a curry at Negura, which offers a unique atmosphere, moreish meals and the unique feeling that you are in India!

model：Rinko Murata @rinco1023